* CNC machined billet aluminum
* Weight with Copper Ring: 208grams/7.33oz
* Weight without Copper Ring: 108grams/3.8oz
* Width without ring: 27mm/1.06inch (one wheel)
* Width with ring: 38mm/1.49inch (one wheel)
* OD: 2.2inch
* Offset: Max, midddle and min.

Though the latest gadgets are in they have certainly not replaced the good old vintage RC cars. The nostalgia of wriggling around with a late 70s or early 80s radio controlled car is way too much to handle for some of the devoted enthusiasts who have been into this hobby for probably as long as the hobby has been around.

If you have a place in your heart for old vintage RC cars you will love these vintage RC car Ads

Want to see more?! check out http://www.vintagercweb.com

The 70’s 
Besides disco, this was also the era of 1/8th scale “gas” powered R/C cars. Companies such as Wencon, Control Technology, Delta Systems, Dynamic Models, and Model Car Enterprises produced cars such as the Wen Car, Scorpion, Delta Dash II, and the MCE car.

Powering these cars to incredible speeds were two-stroke, internal combustion engines mounted on an aluminum chassis. These engines used fuel made of a special blend of nitrogen, methanol, and lubricant. 
Electric powered cars started to emerge in 1974. WorkRite and Leisure were some of the companies that produce these electric powered cars.

In 1976, Tamiya Inc. released their very first R/C car, the 1/12 Scale Porsche 934 Turbo. This was powered by an electric motor with a pan chassis and direct drive transmission.

Three years later, the first 1/8th Scale On-Road Gas World Championship was held in Geneva. Phil Booth, from England, was crowned World Champion driving a PB Racing car.

Cars in the 70’s were designed to run on-road, such as smooth parking lots. followed up the Porsche 934 Turbo with others such as the Lamborghini Countach, Toyota Celica, and scale Formula 1 cars such as the Ferrari 312T3 and the Tyrrel P34 Six Wheeler. 
The release of the Tamiya Rough Rider in 1979 brought a new dimension to the hobby. The car was capable of running in off-road conditions such as dirt, rocky terrain, and water. It had a die-cast suspension system and large rubber tires. 

Immediately following the Rough Rider was the Tamiya Sand Scorcher. Both cars are now collectibles, sometimes fetching over a thousand dollars in eBay. 

These off-road cars could be run anywhere. In backyards, rough parking lots, or baseball fields. Little did anyone know that this would start the R/C craze in the 80’s.

The 80’s
These were the fun years of the hobby. The 80’s saw an explosion in the popularity of the hobby, most notably in the 1/10th scale off-road category. This was an era when you could expect to see 400 competitors in a major race. 

The 80’s also saw World Championships, held every two years, for the 1/12th scale on-road electric cars. In 1982, Associated Electrics became the first 1/12th Electric On-Road World Champion.

1985 was the year of the first IFMAR 1/10th Electric Off-Road World Championship. Again, Associated Electrics won with the RC10.
This was also the year that Tamiya surprised everyone by introducing a 4-wheel drive (4WD) buggy called the HotShot. This was the first true off-road racing car from Tamiya. It was faster than its 2WD predecessors, especially in slippery and dusty conditions. 

1986 was the year of the first IFMAR 1/8th Gas Off-Road World Championship. 5 These were awesome 4WD beasts capable of speeds of 40 mph, off-road! 

By 1988, 4WD off-road cars exploded in popularity. Top electric cars were the Schumacher Cat (1987 World Champion), Kyosho Optima Mid, and Yokomo C4. 

In 1/8th Gas, the Kyosho Burns 4WD took 2nd place in the 1988 IFMAR World Championships. 
This year also saw the emergence of a new class, the 1/10th electric on-road racing cars. These lightweight cars had incredible power-to-weight ratio, capable of circling oval tracks at speeds in excess of 40mph! 

In 1989, cars went even faster. At the Encino velodrome, a 1,000 feet bicycle track, Kent Clausen drove an electric RC10L to an incredible one lap average speed of 57 mph!

The 80’s were truly the best years for the hobby. Crowned were World Champions in 1/12th scale electric on-road, 1/10th scale electric off-road, 1/8th scale gas on-road, and 1/8th scale gas off-road. 

The 90’s 
The decade of speed. Kent Clausen drove an electric RC10L to a staggering speed of 70.1 mph at a bicycle track. This heralded a new type of racing, Superspeedway. Here, cars are run in large oval tracks, sometimes in bicycle tracks 1000 feet long. 

At the second International Electric Drag Racing Association World’s Drag meet, in 1992, electric cars covered 132 feet in 1.8 seconds at speeds over 75 mph.

This time also saw the emergence of 1/10th scale gas cars and trucks, such as the Serpent Impact and electric trucks modified to run using 2-stroke engines. 

1992 was the inauguration of the first IFMAR 1/10th scale electric on-road World Championship. Held in California, USA, the event was won by Joel Johnson driving a Trinity Evolution 10.

By 1993, 1/10th scale electric truck racing was popular. What started out as monster trucks for backyard bashing, these racing trucks are as technologically advanced as their buggy counterparts. 

There was a downside to faster speeds. Battery, motors, tires, and cars became more advanced. Money became an issue, and to an extent, a necessity to win races. 

To make racing more affordable and fun, parking lot races were organized. It was a move back to the origins of R/C car racing of the 80’s. Fun was the name of the game. 

It is worth noting that Tamiya started to introduce scale and realistic looking cars similar to real cars that we drive everyday. These would eventually lead to the popularity of “touring” cars in the year 2000.

1994 saw the arrival of 1/10th scale gas trucks. Associated released the RC10GT, and Tamiya the TR15T. This was also the inaugural year of the Tamiya Racing Championship in the USA, set to promote low cost racing. 

1995 saw the first IFMAR 1/10th scale I.C. On-Road World Championship. This was won German Michael Salven from a company called Serpent. 

1996 saw the trend towards smaller scale cars. Tamiya had the mini series, cars that were technically 1/10th scale but had dimensions similar to a 1/12th scale. The Roadrunner GTO 962 was a 1/12th scale, 4WD touring car. BRP released a 1/18th scale on-road truck. 

In 1997, the first Kyosho World Cup was held in the Philippines. With 30 teams from 17 countries, the winning team came from the Philippines. These cars were 1/10th scale powered by 2-stoke gas engines. Adding to the realism was the 1-hour long race, which included several pit stops for refueling and repairs. 

Touring car mania was on. Companies such as ABC, Associated, HPI, Kyosho, Losi, OFNA, Roadrunner, Schumacher, and Tamiya produced over 40 different cars to choose from. 

1/8th scale on-road gas was a domination of an Italian driver, Lamberto Collari. He won 5 straight IFMAR World Championships from 1989 – 1997. The car was a Serpent Vector with a 2-speed transmission and a 3.5cc engine. Racing speeds were in excess of 70 mph! 

1999 saw the rise in popularity of gas-powered cars. Off-road gas buggies from Mugen and OFNA. Tamiya even joined the gas car craze by producing the TG10 Pro.

2000 Present
The year started of with Atsushi Hara winning the 2000 IFMAR International Scale Touring Car (ISTC) Electric World Championship for Japan. 

2002 was a shocker, when Surikarn Chaidejsuriya of Thailand won the 2002 IFMAR ISTC Electric World Championship, driving a Tamiya car. It was a surprise because this was the first time a Tamiya car has won an IFMAR World Championship.

The Future of R/C
The fun hobby of R/C is currently experiencing dwindling interest and slow growth. Does the future look grim for the hobby? Will it, like a fad, eventually die out? Personally, I believe that this hobby is too much fun to die out. 

As to the future growth of the hobby, I believe in the concept of “self-fulfilling” prophecy. If we predict that the hobby will grow, subconsciously our actions will lead towards achieving that goal. 

As a mere hobbyist, what can I, or we do? Well, we can start by helping out newcomers and beginners by giving them helpful advice. And that is the main motivation for me in writing this book. To help newcomers, and see this hobby grow and exceed the glory years of the 80’s. 

The next step would be to organize low cost, non-competitive, and fun racing events. The idea is for us to all experience the fun of racing, win or lose. And for newcomers and beginners, you can help the hobby by inviting your friends to get into the fun hobby of R/C cars.

Sources:
1. rccartips.com
2. Steve Pond, Radio Control Car Action Magazine, January 1990, p. 108
3. rcvehicles.about.com
4. Robert Schleicher, Model Car Racing, 1979, p. 95
5. www.tamiyausa.com
6. IFMAR Web site – http://members.ozemail.com.au/~ifmar/
7. Steve Pond, Radio Control Car Action Magazine, March 1989, p. 66
8. Rich Hemstreet, Radio Control Car Action Magazine, January 1990, p. 58
9. Mike Ogle, Radio Control Car Action Magazine, November 1992, p. 120
10. Mike Ogle, Radio Control Car Action Magazine, January 1993, p. 168
11. Radio Control Touring Cars, Fall 1997, p. 32 – 43 ]]> http://www.rcgawker.com/2009/10/history-and-of-the-rc-car/feed/ 0 http://www.rcgawker.com/2009/10/crash-your-rc-car-like-a-superstar/ http://www.rcgawker.com/2009/10/crash-your-rc-car-like-a-superstar/#comments Fri, 02 Oct 2009 22:30:35 +0000 rcgawker http://www.rcgawker.com/?p=1400 I laughed out loud when i saw this. Look at the expression on the drivers face. He is crest fallen. I have never seen a car break in half.

Ok one more got to love the slow motion crashes.

OVAL COURSE 2
Have two or three pairs of pylons forming gates and run your car through them as accurately as possible. You will find it much harder than the oval course No.1. For the first period of time, arrange the pylons at a wide space, narrow them gradually, then at last put them at a space of one meter. Practice in both rotations, clockwise and counterclockwise.

ROAD COURSE
When finishing course No.1 and No.2 you have mastered the basic driving techniques. Now you should proceed to complex courses. Build a road course with the pylons, from basic figure “T” and “L” courses to more complicated circuits, assortment of figure “L” and hairpin curves, high speed curve and slaloms.

CAR STEERS OPPOSITELY?
If you are a novice driver and not sufficiently accustomed to R/C car driving, you may feel as if the car steered oppositely to the transmitter movement when the car runs toward you. To solve this problem, try to imagine you were driving in the R/C car. As you repeat the basic exercise, you will get used to this way of thinking and control the model smoothly.

WHERE TO LOOK WHEN DRIVING
When you drive a car, it is important what you keep your eye on. Suppose the squares described are the field of vision, Put your Point of sight on the forward part of the area of vision with a car placed at the rear. The car moves at a rate of 8.3meters per sec when the hourly speed is 30km/h. With your point of site on the car itself you cannot keep clear of obstacles ahead, because it is to late to notice them; nor can you take corners easily.

Vivid Fluorescent orange pylons are useful for marking a track. Soft resin material does not damage your R/C car during impacts. To find out more about purchasing click the image on right.

Corner Pylon
Improving your R/C skills on the Track
Operating a radio controlled car in the open is one thing, but running it on a closed track is entirely different. Even though you are not competing, and only practicing, driving on a track will add much to your driving skills. You can also observe techniques used by experienced drivers running highly tuned cars at the track.

No particular skill is required for driving a car just straight, and the drag speed is limited by the car’s own inherent performance capability. However, at curves, your finesse of taking corners affects the result even among cars of the same performance. Especially in speed races, the cornering technique is one of the decisive factors. After becoming accustomed to the car, try to practice smooth, speedy and stable cornering.

“Slow-In and fast-Out” is a golden rule In speed controlling at curves, and “Out-ln-Out” instructs how to steer a car. Briefly, you should control speed in “Slow-In and Fast-Out” manner and steer a car in “Out-ln-Out” way.

WHAT’S “SLOW-IN AND FAST-OUT”
Decelerating when entering into a curve and picking up the speed after a vertex of the curve is the technique. In the case of entering bends without reducing speed, the car is forced to slow down before finishing comers to lose speed and stability. In the worst cases, the car might spin or run off the course. It also gets the car moving too late to pick up speed. As a result “Slow-In and Fast-Out” is the fastest way to take corner’s.

WHAT’S “OUT-IN-OUT”
It is, as illustrated, a way of turning curves from the outside line of a course Into the inside line to which the car will come closest at the vortexes (clipping points) and finishing the cornering approach back to the outside line, thus making the longest possible turning radius. By utilizing the full width of the course, the car will make an easier turn than the actual curve. So the car may be allowed to run through It faster.

SET THE CUPPING POINT AFTER THE VERTEX
As a matter of fact, however, it seems more advantageous to set the clipping point a little after the vertex, because it allows easier latter half cornering and enables the car more powerful acceleration into the straight course, in spite of sharper first half cornering.

ACCELERATION DURING THE LATTER HALF OF A CURVE IS IMPORTANT
Both “Slow-In and Fast-out” and “Out-in-Out” techniques are established from attaching more importance to velocity in the latter half of cornering than the first half. This has something to do with the acceleration of a car; that is a car increasing speed faster than other cars at the latter half can take the lead in the successive straight track, provided the cars should have the same pickup and maximum speed capability. This principle is true anywhere except in a very wide road where you are not required to reduce the speed at all.

THE LAST CURVE IS THE MOST IMPORTANT IN A CHAIN
The last curve is the most important In continuous curves. In successive bends of a road, steer your car so that it will make the easiest turn at the last curve. Then you will be able to speed it up as soon as getting into the straight course.

CONSIDER COMPLEX CURVES AS ONE
Consider complex curves as one integrated compound. In the case of complex curves with different radii, you can manage to get through by considering them as one complex curve and making a cornering passage.

TAKE THE INSIDE LINE ON GENTLE CURVES
Although the “slow-In, fast-out” and the “out-in-out” rules are basic for cornering. If the curve Is gentle enough, there is little, or no need to reduce speed. Naturally, it is advantageous to use the inside line throughout the curve, when possible

OBSERVE THE ENTIRE TRACK LAYOUT
Although several tips are offered when describing Individual curves, a track Is a succession of straights and curves, it is therefore Important to observe the entire layout and select a smooth running line for completing a lap. Repeat practice laps, trying various routes to find the ideal line. Shortening your lap times during trials is one of radio control’s greatest enjoyments.

WHEN PERFORMANCE GETS BETTER, THE DRIVING LINE SHOULD BE ALTERED
When your car’s top speed becomes faster by using a higher performance motor, etc. more deceleration will be required when entering corners. Not only the speed, but the handling characteristics, tire grip etc. will influence the driving line a car should take.

Not just steering alone, but combining with throttle control, various cornering techniques can be obtained. Practice and master this for much faster and smoother cornering.

FOUR WHEEL DRIFT
This technique is achieved by over steering white deceleration during the early stage of cornering. As the rear wheels start to slide outward and the nose heads towards the inside of the corner, neutralize the steering and add power. The car will take the comer with all wheels sliding. This technique is suitable for rear wheel drive and 4WD race care.

TACKING-1N
This technique is unique to front wheel drive care. Enter a curve straight, then cut power and steer around the curve at the same time The car will change direction quickly. Straighten out and accelerate going through the corner.

COUNTER OR OPPOSITE LOCK STEERING
The term means to steer the wheels against the turn of a comer. If a car enters the corner too fast, the rear wheels could start to skid, resulting in a spin. To stop this, steer into the direction of the skid. This technique is used to prevent the car from spinning and is not for enhancing cornering speed.

WEIGHT LOAD SHIFT ACCORDING TO POWER APPLIED
When running at a steady speed, the load is divided between the car’s front and rear wheels in a fixed ratio. During deceleration, more of a load is put on the front wheel because of inertia, resulting in sharper steering response. Opposite of this is acceleration,

where more of a load is put on the rear wheels, producing a slower steering response. Both the four-wheel drift and tack-in use this weight load shift to obtain desired cornering results.

A race is run with many cars at the same time. If you want to become familiar with racing, the best way is to hold practice sessions with your friends as a group. It is important to feel the difference between driving a car by yourself and competition racing. You’ll notice that
the track seems somewhat narrower with all those care and it becomes difficult to steer the car on the line you desire. Experience is what counts to get your car ahead of other.

START
The result of a race sometimes depends upon the start. However, a quick start is not always advantageous. Accidents are most liable to occur between the start and the first corner because participating cars are running close to one another. Decide how you should start according to the characteristics of your car, course layout, etc.

TAKE AND HOLD THE INSIDE LINE DURING CORNERING
When competing with your rivals during cornering, take and keep the inside line for maintaining the lead. It is difficult for you to beat your opponent in the corner by trying to pass him on the inside line because both cars are running about the same speed. If your car can manage a higher maximum speed than the others, only then is passing on the outside line possible. Trying to take the inside line too early can lead to over-running the corner resulting in a loss of time and running space for your car. While you’re at the edge of the track, your rival can easily pass you on the inside. In order to avoid this, stick to the inside, forcing him to delay his acceleration. Tacking and holding the inside line in the corner is a golden rule for taking the lead at corners. Confrontation between cars during cornering are the most exciting moments during a race, but be sure to avoid the selfish type of running that can cause a collision and damage that will spoil the overall race for everyone.

HOW TO PASS OTHERS
There are various places in which you can try to pass another car. A straight Is the safest place to do so. It is dangerous to start passing a car when you are following close behind it. When you judge it is possible to pass, steer your car a little as soon as possible and attempt to pass. You may pass on either side, wherever there is more room. If the space on each side is about the same, it is advisable to go inside to make the next corner to negotiate. Passing on a corner is dangerous as compared with passing on a straight. If the driver of the car you are going to pass to not skillful In control, your car Is liable to be Involved in its spinning. To make passing easier, it is advisable to go inside the rival’s car and pass it after turning the corner. It is very difficult to pass it on the outside of the corner even if your car is much faster.

IF THE CAR LOSES STABILITY
If your car has hit another car and lost its stability, reduce the speed by turning down the speed control switch. If you try to restore stability by steering, the car might be further disturbed. Start acceleration again only after the car has slowed down and is stable.

Source: TamiyaUSA ]]> http://www.rcgawker.com/2009/09/tips-to-improve-your-driving-skills-on-the-track/feed/ 0 http://www.rcgawker.com/2009/09/venom-creeper-review/ http://www.rcgawker.com/2009/09/venom-creeper-review/#comments Wed, 02 Sep 2009 14:08:05 +0000 rcgawker http://www.rcgawker.com/?p=1297 Venom is best known for their electronic accessories, batteries, motors, and other tidbits, but the Creeper is Venom’s first venture into the kit market. And what better way to kick off entering the kit segment of the hobby than with a competition ready crawler? In my opinion, Venom made a wise decision and jumped into the right market at the right time. There’s no argument that rock crawling is making a big impact on the RC hobby, but will the Creeper make a big impact on the RC crawling segment of the hobby?

Features
Give ‘Em The Shafts - Venom’s included VC drive system provide smooth operation throughout the suspension’s range of articulation and steering. The drive shafts are composed of steel shaft ends and ball joints while the main slider shaft is composed of the same glass filled nylon as the rest of the kit. These shafts are lightweight, helping keep the CG low, and are also durable for punishment on the rocks. Venom uses the same style joints in the axles to provide maximum steering angle, up to 40, while still maintaining smooth operation and durability.

Wheel Weights - The Creeper features a unique wheel weight system that other crawlers don’t offer. These beadlocks are capable of receiving Venom’s optional wheel weights (available separately) for added tuning and traction. Each wheel is capable of receiving six weighted inserts, available in both 1.3oz and 2.5oz increments, allowing for a total of up to a pound per wheel.

Lock ‘Em Up - One of the coolest features on this rig is the lockable differentials. A sliding mechanism on the outside of the axle housing contains a shift fork on the inside that engages the red anodized locking ring. The red anodized ring slides back and forth to engage the three locking pins into the differential bevel gear and thus locks the differential for some serious crawling action. As an optional part, Venom offers a remote locking kit (VEN-8347) to allow you to lock and unlock the differential on the fly.

Continue Reading…

I mounted the Chisels up on Pro-Line’s new Titus 1.9 inch weighted Bead-Loc wheels. They come pre-vented and have a total of 4 oz. of weight per wheel. These are a 3-piece design and as a true bead-lock, no glue is required. 12 screws are used to retain the outer ring.

The 1.9-inch Chisels bead fit in the Titus Bead-Loc wheel perfectly and I was able to easily and quickly mount up the tires. Removing the weight from the rear rims was as simple as removing two rubber O-rings holding in the weight. Since I was testing these wheels on a Losi Mini Rock Crawler, I went with 4 ounces in each front wheel, and no additional weight in the rear.

Continue Reading…

What many newcomers don’t realize is that gas powered RC cars should actually be sub-divided into two categories: Nitro, and Gas. Here are some of the key differences I gathered from wikipedia. Hopefully this helps you make an informed decision!

Electric:
Electric powered RC cars use high capacity compact batteries to drive brushed or brushless motors via an electronic speed control(ESC). Electric models tend to be lighter than Nitro models, due to having fewer components in the drive system. Electric cars have more consistent, and more torque than Nitro models. Also, they also have faster throttle response.

Electric batteries, however, take some time to charge; peak chargers can accomplish this in about fifteen to forty-five minutes. Stock top speeds for Electric models are around 30 mph, but depend greatly on the model and motor.

Nitro:
Nitro powered RC cars can reach moderate speeds unmodified. Maximum power is generally achieved at medium to high speeds, and a slightly slower throttle response than electrically powered vehicles is to be expected. Electric motors effectively produce instantaneous torque, where nitro engines, like full-sized gasoline engines, take time for the engine to spool up and for the clutch to engage. Nitro (and gas) powered cars may be refueled and returned to action in a few seconds, as opposed to electrics needing to remove the body shell and battery fasteners to replace a discharged battery.

Because of higher stock performance and their ability to be driven for longer periods of time, mechanical wear in nitro vehicles is generally greater than in electric vehicles. In addition, the increased speed and weight of fuel-powered vehicles generally lead to higher speed collisions, causing greater damage to the collided vehicles, and a greater degree of safety concern needs to be taken into account. However, nitro vehicles are more durable due to stronger components to sustain the greater stresses of more power.

Gas:
Gas powered RC cars, also known as “fuelies” or “gassers”, run on premixed gasoline and oil. They cost much more (usually $800-$3000 rtr) than nitro and electric cars. They are also much bigger and therefore require much more space to run. They don’t usually have high top end speeds (compared to nitro and some electrics) but have lots of power and don’t take a lot of fuel to run, and run times average 45 minutes. Over time the cost of a gas powered car can be less than some nitro powered vehicles, because of the high cost of nitro fuel and buying new nitro motors to replace worn out ones. In addition, gas powered motors rarely if ever require tuning and have a very long lifespan.

So, you can see there are definitely some major differences to consider.